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218.8-18 Bodice for either Spencer or Gown, 1800-1819
Bodice of printed cotton, with remnants of a formerly attached skirt. Draped surplice style front bodice; side/underarm pieces; and center back narrow diamond-shaped panel. Puffed upper sleeves' armscye extend all the way to the sides of the center back piece. Wide fall collar trimmed with 2" self ruffle, which extends down center front to waist. Long sleeves in two parts: upper sleeve, puffed, beginning at center back panel, to halfway to elbow; tucked and sewn over closer fitting lower sleeve, hemmed at the wrist.
Waistband approximately 2" wide, self faced. Remnants of original skirt in same fabric, now cut off and lost, are still sewn to the waistband. Bodice back and sides are lined in coarse muslin: each piece sewn separately to the front piece. Front has muslin lining free of bodice, with formerly overlapping center front pieces now tucked back and stitched down.
As a gown or spencer, it would have been worn over a chemise, corset, and with at least one bodiced petticoat or gown.
Scaled diagrams of period skirt shapes are included but no pattern for skirt included.
FABRIC:
The original fabric is a roller-printed cotton: brown Indian-inspired stylized floral sprigs approximately 1-1.5", with painted-in blue dots on heart-shaped buds. Light cottons and linens fabrics suggested.
CHOOSING SIZE:
When deciding which size is correct for you to use, measure your rib cage under your bust, preferably with your corset and underpinnings on. The instructions include directions on how to alter the pattern to suit your own measurements.
SEWING SKILLS:
While the pattern maintains the 1/4” seam allowances of the original which was all hand sewn, many of the sections can be machine sewn either at 1/4” or by adding seam allowance of your own choice.