401: Men's Breeches c. 1770, sizes 32-42
These breeches are attributed to belonging to Arthur Middleton, signer of the Declaration of Independence for South Carolina. Born at Middleton Place on June 26, 1742 to the Honorable Henry Middleton and his wife Mary Williams, Arthur grew up in a household that had a long tradition of public service on both sides of the family.
These beautiful red velvet breeches are fully lined with tightly woven white linen. There are figured cream colored silk facings on the front fall, pocket linings, back gusset, and button hole facings at the knee. There is a small pocket in the top of the right hand waistband, as well as 6 3/4” deep pockets on either side of the fall. The waistband is adjusted through the use of a cord threaded through four eyelets at center back waistband. The center back seam is open for 7” (includes 4” of waistband) but covered by a gusset for 5 of those inches. This gusset no longer exists as a whole piece; but fragments linger in the seam allowances. Four buttons along the leg side seam allow for ease of getting one’s foot into the breeches. Kneeband closes with a single button sewn on the opposite side of the four buttons on the side seam.
Two 7/8” self-covered buttons close the waistband, and four 5/8” self-covered buttons close the fall and the pocket corners. These are nicely sewn breeches but corners were cut in the elegance of stitching where it would not be seen, such as the back waistband or the inside of the kneeband.
Pattern includes instructions on how to sew breeches without alining. Boys patterns will be available in 2020.
401: Men's Breeches c. 1770, sizes 42-52
Peachtree Merchantile 501, Overcoat c.1864, size S to XXXL
This is not a difficult garment to sew....it has none of the man tailoring that one would expect in a coat. This was sewn by Archie's mom and goes together more like a woman's coat.
This sewing pattern was drafted from an original jean cloth overcoat in the collection of the Atlanta History Center.
This civilian-style overcoat from the Archibald Smith family in Roswell, Georgia, was made by Anne Margaret Magill Smith (1807-1887) for her son, Archibald “Archie” Smith (1844-1923), who wore it while serving with the Georgia Battalion of Cadets during the winter of 1864-1865. Its original cape did not survive.
The cape pattern included is drafted from a period cape in the collection of the Atlanta History Center.
FIT
This overcoat is meant to be worn over a period suit or uniform, with or without the cape. It reaches mid-calf length and the sleeves extend to fingertip length.
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS
The original overcoat was made of a jean cloth with cotton warp and wool weft. The lining is a heavy cotton.
The cape is homespun wool with a red twill wool lining.
This is a big and heavy pattern. 6 sheets of pattern paper and 50 pages of history and instructions. It weighs almost a pound and a half, so shipping costs are much higher.
502 Peachtree Mercantile, Confederate Trouser c. 1863-65, Mens 32-42
This sewing pattern was drafted from an original pair of trousers in the collection of the Atlanta History Center. This pair of trousers has a plain front with button fly closure and a high-waisted yoked back which is typical for mid-century trousers. The side seam pockets have self facing over a plain white cotton bag. The yoke lining and waistband lining are made from similar white cotton material. The waistband is made in two sections. Center back is open 2” into yoke. These trousers are meant to be worn with suspenders.
Stamped on the inside pocket is GEO. REFL. & HOSP. ASS (Georgia Relief & Hospital Association). This stamp certifies the trousers as being made for the war effort and some sort of standardization in fabric and cut is implied. They, however, show all the signs of being quickly and cheaply made. The tailoring touches we associate with menswear is lacking. There are no interfacings. Many of the seams are not sewn straight and the facings are crooked. They were hand sewn with stitches four to an inch.
FIT
These trousers are meant to be worn at period styling which is high up on the natural waist. Suspenders are a must.
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS
The original trousers are made from wool-cotton jean with cotton lining for waistband and pockets. There are weaving flaws and odd threads throughout. Thread counts: cotton warp 35/inch; wool weft 26/inch.